Season Guide · Ericeira · Santa Cruz · Portugal
Ask ten surf schools when to visit Portugal and ten will tell you “any time is good”. It is technically true and practically useless. The Atlantic on this coast changes character four times a year, and the month you choose decides whether you spend your trip catching waves or watching them.
By Rui Ferreira — Founder of Sea Krew, former competitive bodyboarder and surf coach since 2004.
Short answer: September and October are the best months for most surfers. Warm water, consistent swell, and the summer crowds are gone. June to August is the easiest window for absolute beginners. Winter is for experienced surfers only.
Summer: June, July, August
Water sits around 18 to 20°C, the swell drops to a manageable size and the beaches are sandy and forgiving. If you have never surfed, this is the gentlest introduction the Portuguese coast offers.
Good to know: the north wind (nortada) usually kicks in after midday in summer. Book morning sessions and you will surf glassy water while the afternoon crowd fights the chop.
Watch out: July and August are peak tourist season. Beginner beaches get genuinely crowded, and crowded water means fewer waves each. This is exactly when small groups and a coach who can move you to Santa Cruz matter most.
Autumn: September and October — the locals’ secret
If you can choose freely, choose autumn. The ocean starts producing real swell from September, the water is still holding summer heat, and the tourists have gone home. Line-ups that were shoulder to shoulder in August are half empty by late September.
For anyone trying to progress rather than simply try surfing once, these weeks are worth more than any other time of year. More waves per session, better shaped waves, and enough space to actually practise what your coach just told you.
Our recommendation: if you are booking a surf camp and your dates are flexible, aim for the second half of September or the first half of October. It is the best combination of conditions, temperature and space on this coast.
Winter: November to February
This is when the North Atlantic delivers the swells that made Nazaré famous. Ericeira’s reef breaks come alive, water drops to 15 to 16°C and you will want a 4/3 wetsuit with boots on the coldest days.
Common mistake: booking a beginner surf holiday in December or January because flights are cheap. We can still find protected beaches on many winter days, but there will be days when the honest answer is that the ocean is not suitable, and no coach worth trusting will put you in it.
Spring: March, April, May — the quiet bargain
Spring is the season nobody talks about. Swell is still consistent from the winter pattern, the crowds have not arrived, and accommodation is cheaper than summer. The water is cold, around 15 to 17°C, but a good wetsuit solves that in thirty seconds.
Best value: April and May give you close to autumn quality waves at low season prices, with the added benefit of long daylight hours for two sessions a day.
Month by month at a glance
| Season | Water | Waves | Crowds | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jun – Aug | 18–20°C | Small, clean | High | Complete beginners |
| Sep – Oct | 18–20°C | Consistent, quality | Low | Everyone — best overall |
| Nov – Feb | 15–16°C | Powerful, big | Very low | Experienced surfers |
| Mar – May | 15–17°C | Consistent | Low | Improvers, value seekers |
Wetsuit thickness by month
The question behind the question is usually “will I be cold?”. Here is what we actually put people in, month by month, on this stretch of coast.
| Months | Water | Wetsuit |
|---|---|---|
| July – September | 18–20°C | 3/2 full suit, shorty on the warmest days |
| October – November | 17–19°C | 3/2 full suit |
| December – March | 15–16°C | 4/3 full suit, boots on the coldest weeks |
| April – June | 15–17°C | 3/2 or 4/3 depending on wind |
All of this is included, so there is nothing to buy or carry. Worth knowing anyway if you are deciding between February and September.
How the seasons change the coast, not just the water
Swell size is only half the story. Winter storms move sand, which means the banks at a beach break in February are not the banks that were there in August. A spot that produced perfect peaks last summer can be closing out this one, and vice versa.
This is another reason we do not commit to a beach in advance. Local knowledge is not nostalgia about how a wave used to break; it is knowing where the sand went this winter.
What this means for booking: pick your month for water temperature, crowds and swell size. Leave the choice of beach to the morning of each session, because that decision depends on information that does not exist yet when you book.
Booking windows and prices
July and August fill first and cost most, because that is when European school holidays land. September and October offer better surfing conditions at lower prices, and are the months we recommend to anyone with flexible dates.
Spring is the quietest and cheapest window with genuinely good waves. The only trade-off is colder water and a slightly higher chance of a rainy day, which matters less than people expect when you are wet anyway.
Swipe the season guide
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to surf in Portugal?
September and October are the best months for most surfers: consistent Atlantic swell, water still warm from summer at 18 to 20°C, and far fewer people in the water than in July and August.
What is the best month to learn to surf in Portugal?
June, July and August. The swell is smaller and cleaner and the water is at its warmest, which makes the first sessions much easier. Book morning slots to avoid the afternoon wind and the biggest crowds.
Can you surf in Portugal in winter?
Yes, but winter suits experienced surfers. From November to February the North Atlantic produces powerful swells, water drops to 15 to 16°C and a 4/3 wetsuit is needed. Beginners can still surf on protected beaches on calmer days.
How warm is the water in Ericeira?
Roughly 18 to 20°C in summer and early autumn, and 15 to 17°C from late autumn through spring. Wetsuits are provided year round.
Is spring a good time for a surf trip to Portugal?
Yes, and it is underrated. March to May keeps consistent swell with very few tourists and lower prices. The water is cold but a good wetsuit handles it.
What is the nortada wind?
The north wind that typically picks up after midday on the Portuguese coast in summer. It turns clean morning waves into choppy afternoon conditions, which is why morning sessions are recommended.
Pick your month, we handle the rest
Small groups, all levels, and a beach chosen every morning for the conditions of that day. Tell us when you can come and we will tell you honestly what to expect.